In the natural hair world, oils and butters are often considered essentials. But should they really be a part of your routine? Do they hydrate? Nourish? Protect? Let’s explore the facts and bust the myths.
🌿 What Are “Oils and Butters”?
Oils and butters (also called lipids or fatty substances) are rich, oil-based ingredients that include:
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Vegetable oils (castor, coconut, jojoba, avocado…)
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Butters (shea, cocoa, mango…)
👉🏾 Their main role is to seal in moisture, protect the hair shaft, and sometimes nourish the scalp.
But let’s be clear: they do not hydrate your hair.
❌ Common Myths About Oils
Oils and butters are often overused or misused in Afro hair routines. Let’s clear up a few myths:
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“Oils hydrate the hair” ❌
→ False. Only water and water-based products can hydrate the hair. Oils do not provide hydration — they only help retain the moisture that’s already present. -
“The greasier, the better” ❌
→ False. Excessive oil can clog the scalp and weigh the hair down. -
“Afro hair always needs a lot of oil” ❌
→ Not necessarily. The need for oils depends on hair health, not just hair type.
🧬 Hair Condition Determines Oil Use
👉🏾 The less healthy or more porous your hair is, the more oils and butters can help by:
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Protecting the hair shaft
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Reducing moisture loss
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Soothing a dry or irritated scalp
👉🏾 But the healthier your hair becomes, the less dependent it is on oils. A balanced and mindful use is enough to maintain softness and shine.
🎯 In other words: your oil usage should evolve with your hair — not stay the same forever.
⚠️ Mistakes to Avoid
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Applying oil to dry hair with no moisture underneath
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Using oils that don’t suit your porosity or scalp type
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Overusing oils out of fear of dryness or breakage
✅ So, Should You Use Oils?
Yes — but not blindly. Oils and butters are tools, not magic. They can:
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Support proper hydration
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Boost protection and shine
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Complement your hair care routine
But they can’t replace:
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Proper moisture
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Scalp care
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A targeted hair regimen
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